(Ep8) The Motion Simulator

(This is part of a storytelling experiment called WELCOME TO YOUR QUARTER-CAREER GAP YEAR)

You’re huffing and puffing as you near the end of your morning jog along the deserted Ft. James Beach – crystal blue water on your right, the rest of the beach and Malone’s beach bar to your left – when you see a large man, probably about 6'6", 350lbs., walking onto the beach bar dining patio.

You’ve never seen him before, but there’s something about how he’s walking with a slow and heavy waddle that makes you think of a sumo wrestler.  

Dammit. 

This reminds you of your yet-to-be-finished Japan short story that has a sumo wrestler character – which then reminds you of a promise you made that you’re on the verge of breaking. 

You end your jog. This promise you’re thinking of will require some focus, so you plop down on the dry sand, a few feet from where it turns damp from the tide, and try to catch your breath. Then, you lay back, taking deep clean breaths, putting one hand behind your head and the other forearm over your eyes. Then you focus. 

The promise you made was to Jerry, a new friend who you met in Japan several months ago. You were connected to him by a mutual friend, so when you visited the city of Kyoto, Jerry and his wife showed you around. It was a pleasant day, and over the course of your sightseeing, you found out that you both had a mutual love of fiction and a desire to do more writing. This led to you both agreeing to do a story exchange: every month you would send the other person a story or draft of a story, and give each other feedback. 

For the first couple months, things had gone as planned. Stories were exchanged, comments were given, mutual pats on the back ensued. 

But then you made the life-altering decision to leave your job and to start traveling. This changed everything. And even though the decision was made to free up more time for writing, juggling the logistics of leaving the job, leaving New York, and making travel plans, made your life increasingly hectic. This caused you to miss two months in a row of story submissions. Jerry understood completely, and didn’t give you any grief, but he continued to submit his own stories, while you gave feedback. You beat yourself up about not sending in your stories, but vowed that you would turn in the next draft after a month in Antigua. After all, you figured that you would have the time, and be able to make it happen. 

But so far, you had yet to make it happen. You had written, yes, but the story had become much bigger than you imagined. What was once just going to be one short story about a man traveling through Japan with the help of his Sumo tour guide, had turned into a short story collection, all connected by following the adventures of the main character as he went from country to country. Furthermore, Jerry’s insightful feedback on one of your first drafts convinced you to do a deeper dive into the Japanese culture. Even though he was Canadian by birth, after living in Japan for eight years and marrying a Japanese wife, he could point to details in your story that didn’t ring true. So, to address his comments, you had devoted most your time here in Antigua to doing online research on Japanese culture and building authentic character backstories. The draft had improved as a result, but at this point, you were scared of showing something that still needed so much more improvement.

Laying on your back, you can hear the quiet rush of the tide coming in. Your deadline for your latest draft is coming, too. Tomorrow. 

So what could you do? Finish today? 

Possibly.

Then again, there are a few things that would make that difficult. 

First of all, this is your last full day in Antigua, and tomorrow, midday, you will hop on a plane for Jamaica, your next destination. 

But today is also a busy day. After helping Fawnie with her organic farm, you’re supposed to go on a day trip to see Mt. Obama and English Harbor with your young cousins. 

You’re unsure of how to make it work.

You could cancel with your cousins and work on your story all day after helping Fawnie. 

Or, you could go with your cousins and do an all-nighter when you return.  

Or, you could email Jerry and delay the submission a few days. 

But if you’re honest with yourself, the decision is as clear as the water just a few yards away: take the trip. 

You don’t know when you’ll be back to Antigua, so you might as well jump at the chance now. 

Still, what stings your psyche is the feeling of not delivering what you said you would. Being a man of your word is important you. Always has been. If you make a promise, you do your best to keep it – but if you can’t fulfill it for some reason, you do your best to let people know ahead of time and take responsibility for your actions. You’ve always given Jerry feedback on his work, even in the last two months when you didn’t turn in your own drafts, but to make the exchange really work, both people have to share their stories and be vulnerable. You don’t want to vulnerable. Submitting something that is miles beneath your standards is tantamount to surrendering to mediocrity in your eyes. And that’s the last thing that you want to do. 

The incoming tide hits your heels, bringing you back to the present. It’s time to head back to the house to help Fawnie. So you decide: you’ll go on the trip with your cousins and figure out what to do with your draft later. 

* * *

While digging up weeds in Fawnie’s garden, using a hoe to excavate the green intruders that poke out between the rows of peas and tomatoes and carrots, you remember an amusement park ride, Questor. It was a motion simulator ride where you watch a movie and sit in synchronized moving seats that make you feel like you’re in vehicle burrowing through the earth. As you remember the Questor,  you think about how your trip is starting to feel like motion simulation: you’re having fun, but how much are you actually doing? How much of these experiences are going to help you get a job after these travels? If the purpose of what you’re doing is to free up some time to create stories, how much have you done? Where’s the progress? Motion simulators are fun, but how do they effect the real world?

* * *

Around midday, Brian’s SUV pulls up to Victor’s house and you hop in. Like last time, Brian, Tully, Lara, and Solomon are there, but so is Daniel, Lara’s boyfriend and Solomon’s father. The car pulls out of the driveway and you’re off.  

“First stop the ‘Hill of Hope’! says Brian, speaking about Mt. Obama. Everyone laughs. 

“So what’s up with the name – Mt. Obama?” you inquire. “I mean, I know that the election of Obama was historic. But he’s not Antiguan.” 

“Yeah, but he’s a Black Man. And that’s enough for the people of Antigua,” says Daniel. “It’s like what the rock-sculpture plaque at the top of the hill says, ‘He’s a symbol of excellence, triumph, hope, and dignity, for all people’,” 

They go on to tell you that lots of people in St. John’s would wear Obama hats and shirts during the 2008 presidential election. And since many people have relatives in the United States, they felt connected to what was happening there. 

While you think it’s great that Obama has such an impact all over the world, part of you wishes the peak was named for an Antiguan. Someone who had achieved amazing, world-changing things, yet had come from such a tiny island. To a certain degree, just like Antigua imports so much of their food, you feel like they’re importing their heroes as well. You wish they would trumpet their own. 

But who are you to argue? you think. Can’t go wrong with looking up to Obama’s achievement.  

As the car pulls up to the entrance of Mt. Obama Park, you see a massive chain locking the gates and blocking entry. The park is closed, but there’s no explanation. Just a lock. 

Instantly, you imagine a large sumo wrestler in an ornate purple yukata robe, appearing behind the gates. He waves mockingly. This is your mind playing tricks on you, reminding you of what you still have waiting for you back at home. You shake your head, trying to stay in the moment, but as the car moves back down the road, you start doing some mental logistics: you’ll get back home around 10/11PM; you could work on a quick revised draft, using all character and story development you’ve done; then, another quick draft could follow before 9AM comes when you have to start getting ready for the airport. No sleep. No time to let the subconscious process the first draft, but you would have something to show. Something to signal to Jerry that you’re not some flaky guy who says he’ll do something, but never follows-through. You’re not the Black guy who, through his actions, confirms the stereotype that some people have that Black people aren’t as reliable and as smart or as punctual as others. 

There it is. 

Some of racially tinged negative thinking that sometimes seeps into your head. It’s the kind of thinking that sometimes makes you analyze things longer than they deserve to be when you deal with people who are non-Black, or not part of the African diaspora. Having lived in the United States where sometimes situations and interactions are interpreted with racial undertones, and where, often, the images of Black men as underachieving or not as bright, pervade, your actions try to, sometimes consciously, show the opposite: that you’re upstanding and conscientious. While you were raised by parents to strive for excellence regardless of what others think, sometimes you actually do dwell, for far too long, on what others think. Jerry is, broadly speaking, a White Canadian man, and even though it’s not fully at the forefront of your mind, way back in the deep recesses of your thoughts lie a fear that if you don’t deliver, he might find some confirmation of what some of the negative media images have been saying for years about Black folks. You wish that he could see the old you, the one that you think you still are,  the one who was known by friends as someone who always did what he said and delivered. 

You know this is unhealthy, and that you’re over-thinking the matter, but you continue anyway. As these thoughts volley back and forth in your mind, they’re interrupted here and there by the voices of your cousins, describing the landscape outside the car window. You pass by grasslands, thick forests, some seaside towns, till eventually you reach English Harbor and you snap back to the present, tucking away your story concerns.

The car pulls into Nelson’s Dockyard National Park, a restored British Naval station that now serves as a cultural heritage site and marina. 

After parking, everyone get outs and starts walking around the area. Two hotels, a museum, some craft shops, and restaurants, each designed in an 18th century style, all occupy what were once supply shops, engineer offices, and officers’ quarters. It’s the off-season, so only a few shops are open, and only a few other people – besides your group – take in the old world scenery. 

“They have the Sailing Week Regatta here,” says Brian, as the group moves toward the marina. 

You’ve heard of this: the annual boating event that take place every year in Antigua is supposed to be one of the most prestigious in the world. Of course, you know nothing about sailing, but the setting is certainly beautiful enough to host a world-renowned event. In front of you are several sailing yachts moored to the docks and resting in gorgeous aquamarine water. Behind the boats, you see the magnificent harbor, a body of water protected from the ocean winds by the surrounding hills. 

As you walk by the marina, admiring the boats, you pass by one occupied by about 20 European-looking people – ranging from 20’s and 30’s – sitting on the deck, drinking, and having a party. A massive British flag protrudes near the helm of boat, and beside it, you see large man drinking a beer who, once again, reminds you of a sumo wrestler. 

But this time, you block out reminder of what you could be doing, and continue on. 

Tully leads everyone to a trail that snakes away from the marina and up a hill. A sign says that you’re headed to “Fort Berkeley.” After a few minutes of walking, you reach the top of the incline and see that you’re on a peninsula that projects out across the opening of the harbor. On either side of the piece of land are deteriorating battlements with a few old cannons in the rectangular gaps of the wall. Two crumbling stone structures are on the left side of the fort. A park sign explains that one was a guard house, where soldiers would stay when on duty, and the other was a powder magazine, a structure that held barrels of gunpowder. The fort’s purpose was to protect enemy ships from coming into the harbor, and you can see why as you walk to the edge of one of of the stone windows: from this vantage point, a cannon could easily pick off unwelcome visitors wanting to raid Nelson’s Dockyard. 

Solomon gets a boost from Daniel and stands on top of one the cannons. 

“Boom!” he says. He obviously knows what these were for. 

You climb on top of one of the cannons as well. It’s beautiful up here, you think, as you look away from the harbor and focus on the sea. It’s vast, and a sense of awe comes over you as take in the blue that stretches to the horizon. You wonder what the soldiers must've thought about while on the lookout. 

What’s coming? 

What’s out there? 

You think along the same lines as a light breeze ripples your t-shirt.  

As you stand there, another thought comes to you: as agonizing as it would be, you will write to your friend Jerry, and tell him that you won’t be turning anything in tomorrow. You have a long way to go on this project, so you need time for research and development. If he wants to, he can still send his work and you will give feedback. 

Standing there, you also think about a more short-term goal that you can strive for: instead of working on your Japan story when you get back home, you’ll write the first blog entry of your travels. Even though you haven’t done all the volunteering that you thought you would do, you still have experienced a great deal. So you decide to write about that: what you have learned, what you have seen, and you hope that this will be the beginning of new habit of detailing your experiences.

It's time to step out of the motion simulator. 

______

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(Ep7) Carnival to the Rescue

(This is part of a storytelling experiment called WELCOME TO YOUR QUARTER-CAREER GAP YEAR)

You’re sitting on the porch of Victor’s house, watching the sun recede into the horizon and waiting for your cousins to pick you up. These are the cousins from your paternal grandfather’s side of the family. You visited their home in Bolands a few days ago, and had a good time catching up with Aunt Eileen (your father's half sister), Riley (who feels more like a young uncle), and Riley’s family, which consists of his wife, their three kids – Tully, Brian, and Lara – and also Lara’s five-year-old son, Solomon. You last saw them a couple years ago, but that was with the social buffer of your mother and sister. Now that it's only you, you’re able to have deeper conversations and learn more about what’s going on in everyone’s life. 

“Cuuuuuuuuz! What’s uuuuuup!” yells Tully from the front passenger seat of Brian's compact SUV as it pulls up to Victor's property. This is typical Tully: early-twenties-energy wrapped in adopted hip hop swagger. Even though soca and calypso are the island’s main genres of choice, he loves the American export of rap and all its flashy accoutrements. In fact, he aspires to one day become a big-time rapper. So, when he’s not using his culinary degree to look for chef jobs in local hotels and restaurants, he spends most of his days in the “studio” (whether that means a professional space or a friend's computer program, you don't know) recording tracks for an album.

As you hop into the backseat, you hug Lara and give a high-five to her son, Solomon. Then, you greet Tully and Brian who sit in the front. Tonight it will just be you five, hanging out and going to an open mic poetry slam.              

“You ready to hear some poetry, Solomon?!” you ask. He responds with shy smile as he snuggles closer to his Mom, showing how easily he can go from drama-club-extraverted to mommy-seeking-introverted. You laugh and look out the window as Brian maneuvers the car back to the main road.

You heard about the event from one of those Facebook writing groups that the people at the bookstore told you about. Finally, you’ll get to meet some Antiguan writers. Back in the States, you had a writing group that you met up with every couple weeks, so you yearn for the fellowship that comes with commiserating over narrative struggles and bonding over storytelling aspirations. Even though this event will only be one night, you look forward to learning about the similarities and differences between the Antiguan writers and writers back home. 

But as soon as the car pulls into the deserted parking lot of the restaurant where the event is supposed to be held, your hopes drop faster than a wicket faced by Curtly Ambrose.

Not only is the lot devoid of cars, but because of the restaurant’s open-air design allowing you to see straight into the dining room, you can see that it’s also practically devoid of people. Two people are inside, sitting at the bar, but they probably work there. 

“Have mercy, man. Did you get the place right?" asks Tully, which is what you’re asking yourself. But then you see the name “Big River Restaurant” on the marquee, which is the name mentioned on the Facebook post. 

“Yeah, this is the place,” you say, and get out of the car to talk to the people inside. 

From the people at the bar, you find out that they do work at the restaurant, but they don’t have much info about the open mic. Yes, it’s supposed to happen tonight. But no one has arrived, and they haven't heard from the organizers. 

What's worse is that it’s currently 7:30PM, which is 30 minutes after the Facebook post said that it would start. 

“That’s 'Antigua time' for you,” says Brian, referring to the general nonpunctual nature of gatherings on the island. “They will give a start time of 7, but they really don’t get going until 9.” 

Obviously, you didn’t know this, so you’re torn between convincing your cousins to wait around for the next hour, or doing something else. As twenty-somethings who live with their parents, your cousins are eager to use any excuse to get out of the house, but just waiting around for an event that they’re only going to because of you, isn’t something your comfortable with. 

So, collectively, you decide to stay for fifteen minutes to see if anybody else will show up. And as you wait, Brian and Tully text their friends furiously, trying to find out alternate options, while Solomon does cartwheels in the performance space in the back of the restaurant. 

After several minutes, no one arrives, so right before you ask everybody if they want to a leave, Tully stands up and starts an odd-looking dance. 

“Pre-Carnival! Pre-Carnival! Uh, uh, UH!!!!” he says while thrusting and dancing to an inaudible beat. “Wanna go to the Pre-Carnival celebrations in town?!”

The question animates everybody. Since you’ll be leaving in a few days, you thought you’d miss all the Carnival festivities. 

But apparently not. 

“Let’s do it,” you say, without giving it a second thought. After weeks of solitary writing, you would love to hear some Antiguan poetry and commune with fellow writers, but the pull to sample a little bit of the legendary Carnival atmosphere is too great. 

So everybody piles into Brian’s car and you head back to town, blasting Carnival-appropriate music the whole way and getting in the mood. 

As you enter the city limits, you can feel the excitement everywhere. Brian turns down the music in the car, and when he does, you can hear traces of calypso and soca music in the distance, coming from different areas of town, in almost every direction. Something is happening, somewhere, you just haven't reached it yet. 

With Tully’s urgings, Brian stops outside one of the cricket stadiums and you see a mass of 30-40 people milling about and looking tired like they just came from some sort of celebration. Many of them are wearing pink t-shirts, while others wear green t-shirts. Lara says that they're part of two different mas bands, troupes of people that walk together in masquerade outfits during Carnival. 

Since it looks like things are ending, Brian drives on. As the car moves through the streets, you can tell that things are picking up. Sidewalks are flooded with people and unyielding pedestrians cross recklessly in front of the car, so Brian decides to find a parking space and everyone gets out. 

After a few blocks of walking through the streets of excited revelers, you see a mass of people ahead where the music seems loudest. 

“If you decide to take a picture, do it fast,” Tully warns. “Don’t flash your phone around too much.”

Apparently, the particular type of touchscreen smartphone you have isn’t sold in the country, so if you have it, it’s a clear sign that you’re an American or another kind of foreigner and you have some money. Tully and Brian echo something that Victor and Fawnie told you: you don’t want people to know that you’re American. They’ll think you have money and they might try to rob you.

"Yeah, but at six feet one, two-hundred twenty pounds, I'm not exactly the easiest guy to rob," you say, smiling. 

"Oh, they'll find a way," Tully says ominously. 

When you reach the mass of people lined along the main street, you see that the festival is in full swing. Around you, people of all ages dance where they stand as a slow parade moves down the road. Streetlights illuminate the area as modestly decorated floats, showcasing live bands or sound systems, create their own mobile party. This is just a warmup parade, so the floats aren’t fully decorated with all the frills and bright colors like you would expect. It's just a dress rehearsal to get everyone excited for the big party several days away. 

A long and wide party trolley rolls by, housing a steelpan band. The melody coming from their instruments is magical. Light-sounding and easygoing, it creates a relaxed vibe in the crowd. Looking around, you see how people are shrugging their shoulders and nodding their heads to the beat. This is beach bar music – it’d be perfect to listen to while sipping on a pina colada at Malone’s. 

After enjoying the trolley, you and your cousins move farther down the street where you see an 18-wheeler stacked high with two-stories worth of speakers, blasting out a extremely rapid and vigorous beat. Several people sit on top of the speakers, vibing off the music, even though the decibel level seems like it could rival a jet engine.

“O-Moo!” says the song’s lead singer, followed by a string of lyrics that you don’t understand. And then, “O-Moo!” again. The beat inspires lots of couples around you to dance-grind on each other. Others jump and gyrate. Brian and Tully look on, nod their heads, and play it cool, clearly enjoying the scene, but not wanting to get too crazy, while Lara and little Solomon look like they’re in a trance, rhythmically flailing their limbs up and down, loving every minute. 

You don’t go too crazy, either, but you’re dancing, shrugging your shoulders to the beat, taking it all in: the delicious orgy of sound; the delirious smiles on people’s faces; everything. 

It’s not poetry, or earnest conversations about story and narrative. It’s not the night you expected to have – but you wouldn’t have it any other way. 

(Ep6) Jensen the Genealogical Detective

(This is part of a storytelling experiment called WELCOME TO YOUR QUARTER-CAREER GAP YEAR)

“You’ve been staying at my house, eating my food, and you don’t even know how we’re related!” says Victor after hearing your admission of ignorance. You both are sitting at his dining room table eating mangoes as a post-lunch snack. “That’s grounds for deportation!” 

This is mock outrage; it’s obvious. But he sucks his teeth and mutters, “Unbelievable,” to add to the effect. 

“Well, I know we’re cousins,” you respond sheepishly, “but if we’re second, third, or fourth cousins, I couldn’t say.” 

Fawnie enters from the kitchen with a plate of pineapple. 

“You are his first cousin once removed. And you and me – we’re second cousins,” she says nonchalantly. 

You flash a “How the hell did you get that?” look at her.

“Here,” she picks up a pen and notebook from a nearby table and starts drawing a rough family tree. 

First, she draws you and your sister, and links them to your mother and father.  Then, she links your father to your grandmother, and your grandmother to your grandmother’s sister. Then, she shows that Victor came from your grandmother's sister, and that she (Fawnie) came from Victor.

“Ahhh, I see,” you say, taking it in. “So why isn’t Victor my uncle?” 

“It doesn’t work that way,” she says, and goes on to explain. But after a minute of listening, you’re still confused, so you just move on. 

“Well, I know one guy who knows how this all works,” you say. “Jensen. The guy you spoke to on the phone a couple days ago,” you say, pointing to Victor. “I call him the ‘genealogical detective.’”

In one way or another, Jensen is your cousin. And the first time you met was at your paternal grandmother’s (Grandma Dexter’s) funeral two years ago, but you were so overwhelmed by the hundreds of relatives that you met that day, that you don’t remember the meeting. Your sister met him, too, and a few weeks ago, he called her, trying to learn more information about your immediate relatives. While they spoke, she mentioned that you were in Antigua, and since he was visiting the island in a couple of days (he lives in St. Thomas), she passed along his info to you. Last week, you talked to him on the phone, so today, he's supposed to visit. 

During your phone conversation, you passed the phone to Victor, because by virtue of his age, Victor knows more about the Dexter clan than just about anybody. From what you heard, it seemed like they developed a quick rapport. And after Victor hung up, he announced that they had decided that when Jensen visited, you would all visit the town of Swetes, where most of the family resides. 

After taking one last bite of mango, you ask Victor another family question that you'd been wondering about. 

“So do you know Riley, my father’s nephew?” 

“Riley? Nope, I don't know any Riley” says Victor. 

“How about Raymond? Or Aunt Eileen?” you press.  

“You sure they’re not on your grandfather’s side of the family? The side of your father’s father?” 

In a flash, you see your mistake. Your father was the only child to your grandmother and grandfather, so he was the only link between two sprawling groups of relatives. And since your father passed away three years ago, you and your sister are the only surviving links to that diverse heritage within the same small country. At present, Victor, Fawnie, and the soon-to-arrive Jensen, is part of Grandma Dexter’s side of the family, while Riley, Raymond, and Aunt Eileen, are part of Grandpa Joe’s side of the family. You never met Grandpa Joe. He died when your father was 13, so Riley and your Aunt Eileen (who both live in the town of Bolands) are the best folks to speak with to understand that part of the family. 

When Jensen arrives, you’re surprised at what you see. His name sounds conservative, almost aristocratic, and after speaking to him on the phone about his fascination with documenting the family, you build an image in your mind of him as a glasses-adjusting, librarian-looking fellow. But he’s the complete opposite: he wears a dark brown t-shirt and dark brown jogging pants over sneakers, and on his head, he has on a black skull cap over dreadlocks. Not the head-in-books kind of look you were expecting, but of course, it doesn’t matter either way. You give each other a good-natured bro hug, like you haven’t seen each other for ages. 

“Wah gwan, suh?” he says. 

“I’m well,” you respond, knowing that you'll remember this meeting more than the first. 

After he greets Victor and Fawnie, you all sit down on the porch, shielded from the early afternoon sun, and start talking family. In true detective fashion, Jensen asks question after question to Victor, weighing each answer and then following up with a bunch more. It’s fascinating to behold, the back and forth of it all, but not the content – because to you, the names and the places are all foreign. You just sit there and nod, like they're speaking another language that you don't understand, but don't want to let on that you have no idea what they're talking about. You don’t pick up much, which is quite frustrating, but you’re happy that everyone seems to be having a good time. 

After thirty minutes, the decision is made to travel to Swetes, where much of the Dexter family currently lives. So you, Victor, and Jensen pack into Jensen’s rented sport utility vehicle and leave.

The drive is about an hour, and Victor and Jensen continue to rattle on indecipherably, but it’s pleasant to see other parts of Antigua outside the rural and beachy Ft. James area, and the tightly packed metropolis of St. John's. 

Out the window, as you pass through the grassy and untamed landscape between towns, you see a few small, four-room homes with dusty trucks on blocks out front, but occasionally, you also see a three-story luxury house in the midst of more modest buildings. To some, this is confounding. But not to you: this is Antigua in the throes of development.

When you reach Swetes, the car pulls into an empty grass lot at the edge of a residential neighborhood. At the back of the lot is a dense thicket of uncleared land, full of tall grass, trees, bushes, and shrubs. This is where you’re headed, so everyone gets out of the car and starts walking and pushing through the brush. The path guides you downhill, and as you bob and weave past branches and sidestep thorny bushes you realize that you’re almost at the bottom of a valley. In the distance, you can see lush green hills dotted with houses and patches of trees. Victor tells the intricate history of the area as you walk. He points to the houses on the hilltops that are owned by government officials, mentions where the sugar plantations used to be, and speaks about how the water and electricity were able to reach all the homes in the area. It’s a fascinating little summation and you learn a great deal. 

Then, you come to a cleared area of land where it looks like a house once stood. On the ground is black dirt with piles upon piles of tree trunks and branches on top of it.

“This is where it all started, where the family started,” says Victor. Then he points at you, “Your grandmother was born here. So was your father. He was raised here till about 6 years old, when he was then sent to live with his father in Bolands."

You look around and try to imagine the area as a place where you father ran around as a little boy. 

“Yes, this whole area was lively and bustling,” Victor continues. “But it’s hard to build on these slopes, so they started to build further away, like back where we parked, where the ground is more level.” 

He points to a fenced-off area with tilled ground. “Over there – we still use that. Your cousin Lester still harvests carrots and sweet potatoes there.” 

“Lester – Uncle Waylon’s son?” says Jensen. 

“Yep,” Victor answers. You have no idea who Lester is, so you go back to imagining what it was like for your father growing up here as a boy. 

After some more talking, the three of you return to the car and head back the way you came. But before you leave the area, you stop by two adjacent houses a few blocks away. These are the homes of some of your cousins. Once again, you have no clue how they’re related, but you take Victor and Jensen at their word. 

While most of the relatives talk on the side of one of the houses, you sit on the porch and chat with an 80 year-old guy who’s supposed to be your cousin. 

You want to learn more about him, but he only speaks in Antiguan dialect, which you have a hard time understanding. So, after asking a few questions and not being able to make out the answers, you decide to stop saying “I’m sorry could you say that again?” You’re embarrassed, and don’t want your cousin to feel like there’s something wrong with him, so you just nod and smile. You feel ashamed that you don’t know more dialect, but as a creole language, there’s no real way to study it. There’s no "Rosetta Stone: Antiguan" you can pick up. 

Eventually, Victor and Jensen finish catching up, and you all drive home. 

On the ride back, Jensen gives you a website where he logs all the different Dexters on a grand family tree. And when you view it later that night, everything starts making a little bit of sense. Many of the names you’ve heard today are there and stop feeling so foreign. It’ll take you a while to learn more about each person, but from now on, you know that the next time the family has another sprawling talk about relatives, you’ll have a cheat sheet to help you along. 

______

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(Ep5) Antiguan Fam

(This is part of a storytelling experiment called WELCOME TO YOUR QUARTER-CAREER GAP YEAR)

There are a couple more weeks left in your month-long stay in Antigua. And while your early plans of volunteering and weekly writing groups hasn’t worked out as planned, your steady diet of short story writing has been progressing quite nicely. You’re on the third draft of your story about the adventures of a Black man traveling through Japan, and even though you still have a long way to go to arrive at the end goal you have in mind, you’re inching forward, and that’s something to be proud of. 

Another item that seems to be progressing is that you're getting to know your Antiguan relatives. Just like your characters whose backstories you continue to flesh out, you’ve become more familiar with the backgrounds of the cousins who you’ve been living with for the past few weeks. 

Victor, the 80-year-old cousin (who’s more like an uncle), knew your father growing up. He owns the modest one-story home where you stay, and has lived there for the last 10 years, first with his wife, but then after she passed a few years ago, he lived alone for a couple years before his youngest daughter, Fawnie, moved in within the last several months. 

Fawnie is Victor's 40-year-old daughter who was born and raised in Harlem, New York City. For most of her adult life she lived and worked in Harlem as a physical therapist. But for the last several years she’s become weary of the city, and has wanted a change. During her childhood summers, she would stay in Antigua at the family home, so she always dreamed of a return to the tranquil environment that she loved as a kid.

So, after a few years of prep, she made the move back to Antigua with a plan: she would start a small organic farm (something that was hard to do in the limited green spaces of New York), use Youtube to teach herself how to grow different plant varieties, and then try to sell her harvest to the local Antiguan stores and restaurants – places that hadn’t yet caught on to the organic trend that had been sweeping through the States.  

That was the plan, at least. 

After some trial and error, she was able to grow most of the crops that she wanted. Tomatoes, eggplants, carrots, and sweet potatoes, all filled baskets and cupboards in her house, and she was able to give plenty away to her friends, but selling to businesses didn’t go as well as she had hoped. 

On a small island such as this, who you know goes a long way. She knew a few people who worked in restaurants, or who were friends of friends who worked at hotels. This helped her get some meetings. And at most of her meetings, people would remark at how fresh and delicious her tomatoes were. “The best we’ve tasted in a long time,” they would say.

But the sales never came. 

“It’s the big factory farms – they’re in the way,” she would lament. 

Just like in the States, the big farms had the volume and the speed that smaller farms couldn’t match. 

“Also, it doesn’t matter that my food tastes better. In a lot of these cases, the people at the big farm happen to be the brother of the cousin of the sister of the owner of the restaurant. It’s a small island, so the connections are thick.” 

Fawnie and Victor had connections of their own, but not so much in the food industry. They had quite a bit of family in various parts of the island, but most of their connections came from being Jehovah’s Witnesses. 

You don’t know that much about the faith, and often, you confuse them with Seven-Day Adventists, but today is Sunday, so to satisfy your curiosity, you decide to throw on the only set of nice clothes that you brought with you and accompany your cousins to the service. 

Jehovah Witnesses don’t call their place of worship a church, it’s “Kingdom Hall,” because they view it as place to learn about God’s Kingdom. And as you walk inside, it seems like any other meeting space or auditorium with chairs arranged to face the raised stage. It doesn’t feel like a church. There are no altars, crosses, or images of Christ on display. 

“The Bible says we are to ‘flee from idolatry’ – and that’s what all those decorations are to us,” Victor explains.  

The congregation ranges from young to old, all dressed in their “Sunday Best.” And as you look for a seat, Fawnie and Victor introduce you as their cousin from New York, which causes lots of people to say that they love New York and that they have a cousin there. 

The service starts, and just like other churches you’ve been to, there’s a few songs at the beginning, some reading of scripture, and a short sermon. 

But there’s another portion of the event that you weren’t expecting: the reading of The Watchtower, the Jehovah’s Witness official publication. 

Over the years, you’ve been handed Watchtowers by pleasant Witnesses on the streets of New York, but you never took the time to read through them. 

You look closely at the Watchtower in your hand and see the “study articles” designated for people to read each week. The two articles from previous weeks – “Parents, Children: Communicate With Love” and “Safeguard Your Inheritance by Making Wise Choices” – are followed by today’s article, “Strengthen Your Marriage Through Good Communication.” Two congregation members are chosen to read a few paragraphs of the article, and then a question is posed to the congregation about what was read. 

“What factors can work against good communication in a marriage?” says the Hall leader. 

Several people raise their hands. “Different communication styles,” says one person. 

“Different upbringings,” says another, “like if one person came from a ‘yelling’ household, and the other came from a don’t-talk-about-your-feelings household.”

These are all answers that partially came from the text that was just read, making the whole experience seem very much like Seventh Grade English class. But you’re fascinated. Never before have you seen public discourse like this in church service. There’s a back and forth between the Hall leader and the audience with people answering questions and building off of each other’s answers. It’s left of what you’re used to, but it’s a positive experience just the same. 

The service ends, and after some more introductions and goodbyes, you hop in the car and head home. 

Your curiosity is piqued like never before, and you pepper Victor and Fawnie with questions. They tell you that, for the most part, the Jehovah's Witnesses have similar beliefs to other Christians, but they also have an interesting belief about death. They believe that we are currently in the “end of days,” and sometime soon, God will wipe everyone off the Earth, allow certain folks to stay and live forever on the recently scrubbed and fumigated paradise that was once full of sin, while others – a certain select 144,000 people – get to be His angels and follow Him up to heaven. 

You’re fascinated by the number – it’s so specific. You ask many more questions about these end times, but your cousins don’t have all the answers and they say that you can either read the Bible or look online for more info

After arriving home, you write about your Kingdom Hall experience. Having grown up in a Methodist church, you understand the somewhat similar Jehovah's Witness beliefs, even if you don’t agree with many of them. Fifteen years of expanding your religious knowledge post-college has left you skeptical of traditional religious practice, but you feel thankful for the foundation of morals and ethics that the practice laid down when you were young. In fact, most of your family members in the U.S. and abroad currently, or in the past, have had some sort of church-centered upbringing. This by no means makes them perfect,  of course, but you've noticed a culture of kindness and eagerness to help that’s common amongst all of your cousins, aunts, uncles, and grandparents. You feel very lucky to have this in your family, realizing that not everyone is so fortunate. 

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(Ep4) The Economy

(This is part of a storytelling experiment called WELCOME TO YOUR QUARTER-CAREER GAP YEAR)

“THIRTY DOLLARS FOR AN ORANGE !?!” you say, aghast and standing in the produce section of an Antiguan supermarket five minutes from Victor and Fawnie’s house.

In your hand is the item in question: a orange – at lease you think it is – with a strange yellow-greenish color and bruised like someone used it like a fastball. 

Fawnie, who had doubled over in laughter at your exclamation, catches her breath. 

“Yep,” she says, shaking her head. “That’s what I’m sayin’. You should see the price on the grapes, or the apples, or the bananas…good lawd…the bananas!”

You put the orange down and start walking through the produce area. Grapes, apples, bananas – all like she said: woefully overpriced (after converting it from East Caribbean dollars to US dollars, of course) and looking like someone took the old, bruised runts at the bottom the fruit piles in America and shipped them over here.

“It’s just the way the import-export system works,” Fawnie continues, looking at a caved-in melon. “Even though they grow many of these fruits here in Antigua, our best stuff gets sent to other countries, and the worst stuff from other countries comes here.” 

“Yep,” says Victor, walking by and heading for the bakery section. “I don’t even bother.”  

“Oh come on, how do the politicians – how does anybody even allow that?” 

Fawnie has a few explanations and so does Victor, but clearly, this is an issue that they’ve come to accept. 

“We just get our stuff at the booths on the side of the street.” 

She’s referring to the the roadside fruit stands that pop up here and there wherever you drive in the area between the grocery store and their home. People pick the bananas, mangoes, and other fruits from their own trees and offer it for sale. And it's always at a better price and quality than the stores.

On your way back home from the store, the talk about food transitions into a talk about the economy. 

“The economy is like crazy bad,” Fawnie says. “High unemployment galore. It’s because we're a tourism-dependent economy. Tourism is like 60 to 70 percent of the GDP and it's been way down since 2008.”

You knew that tourism was a massive industry here,  but didn't realize it was that big. 

“Money’s so bad that even the government has problems paying their workers. At the hospital where I might do some work – they stopped paying their workers for multiple weeks. These are healthcare workers! We need our healthcare workers!" 

You hope so.

You certainly hope so.  

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(Ep3) The City, Part 2

(This is part of a storytelling experiment called WELCOME TO YOUR QUARTER-CAREER GAP YEAR)

Your whole plan hinged around two or three hours of breakfast, internet research, and distraction-free work at the coffeeshop. And there was no PLAN B, because you didn't think there was any reason to have a PLAN B. But as you look around, you recognize your mistake: it’s a ghost town at 9AM in the Redcliffe Quay shopping district because it’s the off-season.  Without tourists, there's no reason to open early, and out of the stores that are open, most of them are grocery stores, convenience stores, or other places that aren’t set up to accommodate a sweaty foreigner, looking for internet and a place to sit. 

You look at your cell phone. If you were in New York, it would take you ten seconds to find another coffeeshop or restaurant. But you’re not in New York.

Then, you remember from your research, that a bar in the Heritage Quay shopping district, six or seven blocks away, has internet. It probably won’t be open, but you decide that the walk will help you pass time until 11AM when some of the RedCliffe restaurants open for business. 

So you start walking. A couple blocks away from the shopping district, the streets rumble with cars and the sidewalks are filled with people briskly walking to work. But as you weave in and out of the throng, you get the sense that people are staring at you. At least that’s what it feels like. You get self-conscious and realize that your forehead is dripping with sweat, so are your armpits underneath your backpack straps. 

You think about your clothes, maybe that’s drawing all the attention. Your mother, in her infinite Caribbean wisdom, said to dress very plain so you wouldn’t stand out like a naive, ostentatious tourist. You took her advice for the most part, but today, as you walk through the streets with your casual-for-New-York button up shirt and Adidas shoes, you feel like maybe you didn’t dress down enough. 

When you arrive at the Heritage Quay bar, it’s closed, just like you expected, so you turn around and think about where to go next. After resting for a few minutes on a bench outside the bar, you decide to take an impromptu, unguided, sightseeing tour of the city. After all, there doesn’t seem to be anything else to do until 11 AM. 

So you walk and walk, traversing the uneven sidewalks and leaping over the treacherous gutters while taking in the sights. You see the magnificent St. John's cathedral, the Antigua museum, and the harbor where the cruise ships dock.

But the staring continues and so does the sweat. In fact, you're sweating so much that you can feel the drops of perspiration cascading down your chest inside your shirt. Your back aches from the books and the laptop. And just when you feel like you’re in pure agony, like you’ve been giving a Sumo wrestler a piggy-back ride, you see the sign: 

“Library.” 

You totally forgot about it as an option. Fortunately, it had opened at 10 AM and was the perfect air-conditioned refuge to recover, rest, and get some work done. You walk in and get settled. The Wifi is extremely slow, but it works. There's plenty of space, books, and friendly faces. You make note that wherever you go, the library should always be high on your list of places to locate. 

After getting some writing done, you leave and go to lunch at the Marcel Café, a French Caribbean restaurant back in the RedCliffe area. 

You have a great meal – a succulent Mahi Mahi – but you have an even better interaction with the owner of the restaurant, Cecilia. 

The conversation isn’t the most free-flowing encounter, and you feel like you ask most of the questions, but after so few interactions outside of your cousins, it's a welcome encounter. 

To a certain degree.

Cecilia is attractive (her mixed Portuguese and Grenadian heritage gives her a intriguing look) and well-traveled (you speak to her about her various European excursions), but after a while, you sense a haughtiness to her manner. And it's not just how she acts, but the condescending tone she seems to have when speaking about St. John's and the nightlife. It's almost as if she would rather have her restaurant in English Harbour, the playground for the rich and, typically, European. Naturally, you acknowledge that she can like whatever she likes, but you don't like how she speaks about the St. John's residents, who typically are Black and of middle to lower-income.

Upon leaving the restaurant, you wonder if you ever sound like that, like you're better than other people. You hope not. Your mother used to tell you that "no one is better than you and you are better than no one." She also used to say that the Queen of England sits on the toilet and shits just like everyone else.

To finish off the day before Fawnie picks you up, you head over to a bookstore that Cecilia told you about. It's a cramped and stuffy three-story building, but it excites you. Books always have – so much knowledge and perspective and goodness jammed into all those pages. You feel at home.

After thumbing through a few books about Antiguan myths and ghost stories, you're reminded of your desire to find a writing group. And what better place to find someone who knows about that than in a bookstore? From the employees you learn that, yes, there are writing group meetings in the area, but not until after Carnival – which ends after you leave the island three weeks from now. Fortunately, they also give you the names of some Antiguan poetry slam and book-lover groups on Facebook, saying that you might be able to find out more info there.

Leaving the bookstore, you decide to use your last 30 minutes before Fawnie picks you up to check out those Facebook groups, so you go to the RedCliffe Big Banana pizza restaurant, order a soda on the bar patio, and use their WiFi. After a few minutes of reaching out to people on social media, you notice some soccer on the bar TV and strike up a conversation with the bartender.  A lively debate about English soccer ensues. You speak about the virtues of the Arsenal soccer club, while the bartender heaves praise on Manchester United. A friend of the bartender comes in and joins the conversation. He loves Liverpool and the debate continues. 

At one point, the bartender leaves to tend to another customer, and his friend seizes the opportunity.

"Hey man, so I have a soccer game later tonight, " he starts. You look down and notice he's wearing soccer shorts and a striped jersey t-shirt. "But I don't have any shinguards. So I wanted to ask – do you have some money I can have to buy some shinguards?"

Wide-eyed, you look at him, trying to absorb the request. "Shinguards?" you say, trying to buy some time as you analyze the situation. The guy doesn't look like somebody who struggles for money: moderately priced tennis shoes, well-kept soccer jersey. It's confusing. 

"C'mon man, shinguards, man! You're a rich American, man! You can spare the money!"

It's the "rich American" that does it: shuts the door on any sympathy you may have had. Begging for food is one thing, but begging for shinguards as an able-bodied 20-year-old kid is another thing entirely.

You make some excuse about not having any money to give and then leave. 

Standing at the intersection where you’re supposed to meet Fawnie, you alternate between thinking about the shinguard incident and the condescending tone the restaurant owner had about the city. You shake your head, because you don't want to connect the two. But it makes you sad, for a moment. 

Fawnie drives up, then you get in the car and go home. 

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(Ep2) The City, Part 1

(This is part of a storytelling experiment called WELCOME TO YOUR QUARTER-CAREER GAP YEAR)

The ambient noise of a metropolis can be a unnerving thing. 

The choking gearshift of large commercial trucks. The honking of impatient brow-furrowed taxi cab drivers. And the general din of people shouting, walking, breathing, and knocking their heels on the cement. 

It can all wear on you after a while. 

So if you hear it for twelve years straight, then going to a place filled with the ambient noise of waves softly crashing can be a welcome relief. 

Until it isn’t. 

Until all that lack of noise pollution has you fiending for being in the general vicinity of large groups of people again.

This is the kind of mood that hits you after two and a half weeks in Antigua. 

You’ve settled into a rhythm of waking up, exercising on the empty, off-season beach, spending four hours of helping your cousin, Fawnie, with her backyard organic farm, and then returning to the solitude of writing on the porch or at Malone's beach bar ten minutes from home. 

But you thirst for more human activity. New relationships. Maybe even some flirting.

So you decide to take a walk into the city of St John’s, twenty-five minutes away from the rural and beachy Fort James area where your cousin lives. 

The walk into town is an adventure in itself. You’ve been into town before, but you drove there, and you weren’t paying much attention to the different streets and landmarks that signal whether you’re going the right way. 

Fawnie tells you to “turn right at the green house, and follow it all the way into town.” Seems easy enough. And from your passenger-seat recollection, that sounds about right. 

But there are a few variables that you have to contend with. The first is that the road by the green house is a winding road that forks four or five times in such a way that you have to guess which road is the real road you need to be on. As a result, you could just as easily end up far west of the city, as you could right where you want to be. If you were in the U.S., naturally, you could whip out Google Maps and figure out where you’re going. But in Antigua, without an international data plan and a photographic memory, a general sense of direction is your only friend. 

Another variable is the heat. A thirty-minute walk in 80- to 90-degree weather wouldn’t be so bad, but you decide to wear pants and a backpack loaded with a laptop and a bunch of bulky books. Easy for the first 10-minutes, and then oppressive for the next 15.  

Eventually, you make it to town and look forward to settling in at your first destination, a tiny coffeeshop in the Redcliffe Quay (pronounced "key") shopping district called Cup of Wonderful. It’s air-conditioned, right by the water, and the pleasant seen-it-all owner, Teresa, is great to talk to. (You briefly stopped there with Fawnie a few days earlier.) 

But the shop is closed. You curse the heavens. 

(To be continued…)

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(Ep1) Stimulation Deficit Disorder

(This is part of a storytelling experiment called WELCOME TO YOUR QUARTER-CAREER GAP YEAR)

You’re sitting at a patio table in Malone's beach bar, a restaurant and outdoor concert venue on Fort James Beach in Antigua. It's sunny and quite balmy, but your table is underneath a thatched-roof pavilion, so you don’t feel the full impact of the ball of fire in the sky. A cool breeze rolls across your skin, while it also causes the pages of the notebook in front of you to flutter. 

“This is the life,” you imagine someone saying about where you are. But that’s not how you currently feel, despite the fact that crystal blue waters gently lick the white sand 30 yards from where you sit.  

Looking down at your notebook, you think about the short story you’re writing. This is awful, you think. The idea excites you, but the execution, as far as you see, is severely lacking. It deals with the shenanigans of a Black American guy around your age (34/35), who, during a trip to Japan, meets a former-Sumo-wrestler-turned-tour-guide who takes him on a little adventure through Tokyo. You’ve been working on it since your trip to Japan last year. And even though you’ve written several drafts, it doesn’t come close to the sweeping adventure that you imagined it would be. 

Fixing your gaze on the waves, you consider the fact that yes, crafting this story is difficult, but what makes it more oppressive is that you don’t have much else to take your mind off of it. 

This was supposed to be a smooth transition into a new life – or at least a slightly new direction in life. Two months ago, you were in New York City, working your butt off as an advertising copywriter. You loved your colleagues, but you needed a change. Plus, the urge to travel and to write fiction tugged at you like a petulant little child, so you finally gave in and paid attention. 

After a few stops and starts, you had finally made it to the first leg of a self-designed, year-long journey that would give you time to write, but also to explore and volunteer in the countries you would visit. 

But fifteen days in, things weren’t going as smoothly as planned. In Antigua, the home country of your father, where you stayed with your 80-year-old cousin and his 40-year old daughter, you had hoped to be near the end of writing a short story, volunteering with a school or film production company, attending regular writing group meetings, and doing a Choose-Your-Own-Adventure type project where students from your school program back home voted on where you went and what you did next. 

But at the moment, none of these were happening. So while sitting at the table underneath the pavilion, you assess your situation. 

“I have stimulation deficit disorder,” you think to yourself. There’s no such thing as stimulation deficit disorder, but that's how you feel. In New York, you had plenty of activities to fill your time. But here in Antigua, all you have is time. 

Stopping your line of thinking, you look around. Time for a dip in the sea. Maybe it could wash away some these negative thoughts, at least for the moment. 

You pack up your backpack and head down to the beach.

After a dip in the ocean, you settle down on your towel and crack open a book about Antigua. It was written by a guy who grew up here in the 70’s. It talks about living on the island in a simpler time where there wasn’t much technology, so people were very resourceful. You only read one page, because you can’t focus. So, you put on your headphones and start listening to a podcast about paleo fundamentals and eating whole foods. 

After a few minutes, you put that down as well.  

It bothers you that you’re not actually “doing” anything but writing stories. Time to put in some more work – or at the very least, to get out of the sun. 

You put on your clothes and start walking back down the winding road that leads to your cousin’s house. While passing by the beach bar, you see a dead tarantula in the road. It was flattened by a car, no doubt. It reminds you of how you’re feeling right now. A little flattened by making the choice to “cross the road,” so to speak, to see what else is out there, to see what other kind of opportunities life has in store for you. 

Further down the road you pass a grass field with grazing horses. 

There’s nobody nearby, so you wonder who owns them. The beasts pay you no mind as you walk by. 

Across the street from the field is a one story house with a helipad beside it. A woman sits on the porch petting a hefty-looking Rottweiler. You wave to the woman. This is Marcy. She sells helicopter tours for Antigua, Barbuda, and the lava-ravaged Montserrat. Yesterday, you talked to her about a possible work exchange: in exchange for your copywriting help on their website, brochures, and whatever they need, you’d get a helicopter tour over Montserrat. She said that she wasn’t the person to talk to, but could forward your work samples to the appropriate people. 

You didn’t have a good feeling that anything would come of it, but you decide not to dwell on what you have no control over. She walks back inside the house immediately after she waves to you. 

Turning down the street to your cousin’s house – a dirt road with power lines running alongside it – you run into your cousin’s dog, a small mutt with a mixed brown and white coat. 

“How you doing, boy? Huh? How you doing?” you say, assuming the dog recognizes you from the last 15 days.

Crouching down, you motion for the dog to come. But it takes a step back, unsure of whether to trust you.

“You look lost, boy,” you say, standing up. “But hey," you chuckle, "so do I.” 

Then you continue down the road toward the house with the dog trailing behind.

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